I generally tend to shy away from using the term “travel guide” in my blog posts, but since my February vacation to Puerto Rico was my third time on the island (and I have insider knowledge from my Puerto Rican fam), I decided to upgrade my word choice this time around. This post contains all my recs for activities, traditional food, restaurants, etc. and photos from my last two trips to P.R.—the first in March of 2023 and the second in February of 2024. Buckle up, it’s a long one!

What to Do

Leisurely Explore Old San Juan

One of my favorite parts of our 2023 visit was just meandering through the cobblestone streets of Old San Juan, with no agenda. San Juan is the capital of Puerto Rico, and Viejo San Juan is a subsect of the city that feels like traveling back in time. There are so many cool and colorful buildings to see, as well as hidden shops and restaurants worth exploring. A highlight for us was stopping into the bar at Hotel El Convento to rest our feet and sip on delicious white sangria. We also stumbled across a piano bar one night (haunted vibes but in the best way) with a beautiful hidden rooftop area. Unfortunately, we got there just at closing, but I would love to go back to experience it more fully!

Meander Through Museo Casa Blanca

I wanted to check out this museum when we stayed in Old San Juan in 2023, and it ended up being so much cooler than I expected. The house and museum itself belonged to the first governor of Puerto Rico, but we didn’t end up paying to tour it. Instead, we explored the grounds surrounding the house for free, which was akin to a botanical garden! There were so many beautiful plants and photo-ops—felt like one of those places that would be perfect for a wedding.

Tour El Morro

If you’re curious about the history of Puerto Rico, touring Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a great place to start. El Morro is a large fortress along the water in Old San Juan—impossible to miss and one of the iconic symbols of Puerto Rico, often seen on postcards and other art. It was commissioned by Charles I of Spain in 1539, and by walking around the exhibits you can learn a little bit about the indigenous Taíno, Spain’s settlement of the island, and the eventual deal made between Spain and the U.S. Even if you don’t want to pay to go inside El Morro, you can still walk the path along the perimeter of the fortress, which takes you past some cool lookout points and down along the water. You will also pass by La Plaza de Princesa, another tourist attraction in San Juan.

Go Dancing at El San Juan Hotel

You have to experience at least some dancing while in Puerto Rico, whether that be stumbling across live music in the plaza, clubbing at the maze that is La Factoría, or seeking out something a little classier at El San Juan Hotel. This hotel is where my great aunts and uncles used to go dancing when they were younger (well, some of them still go!) and is the epitome of an old school night out on the town. It was recently renovated after the last hurricane, but all my family said they kept the classic feel—lots of dark mahogany and incredible chandeliers everywhere. There is also a small casino in the hotel! Even if you don’t participate in the dancing, the band was great and the people watching even more entertaining. (First pic is actually at the Condado Vanderbilt during our 2023 trip, but I wanted to share my dancing outfit!)

Relax on the Beach

Of course, you can’t go to Puerto Rico and not spend time on the beach. I’ve been spoiled in that a lot of the time I’ve spent on the island has been in my aunt’s neighborhood, a beach resort community called Palmas del Mar in Humacao (on the east coast of the island). I haven’t been inside any of the resorts there, but it is such a stunning and relaxing community, with quiet beaches, restaurants, a plaza, and lots to do—I can’t imagine the resorts would disappoint.

For beaches closer to San Juan, it’s been so long since I’ve been that I can’t remember which ones are worthwhile. But I do have a memory from my first trip back in 2012 of some incredible snorkeling at a beach near the city. I’ve stayed in the Condado area before, which is the more commercial hotel strip along the water, and there are lots of beaches there (I’m partial to staying in Old San Juan myself, though it is further from direct access to the water).

This most recent trip, I visited the west coast of the island for the first time to spend a day at Playa Buyé, which is on the Caribbean. The white sands and turquoise waters were incredible, but the beach was so crowded that it wasn’t quite as relaxing as the Atlantic beaches in my aunt’s backyard (like I said, I’ve been spoiled!). Nevertheless, it was still a fun weekend in Cabo Rojo (stayed at this great Airbnb), and we even checked out Boquerón one night, which is the place to be if you’re looking to party.

Bioluminescent Bay Kayaking Tour

Puerto Rico is home to a handful of the world’s bioluminescent ecosystems. Bioluminescence (“glowing water”) is caused by a high concentration of a type of plankton called dinoflagellates, which emit light when you stir the water! One place to experience this unique phenomenon is in Fajardo, about an hour drive outside of San Juan. There are several tour companies through which you can book a nighttime kayaking tour, where you kayak through a narrow mangrove forest into the bioluminescent bay. This is such a cool experience, and I highly recommend it if you visit the island! We booked through Pure Adventure, but all the companies seem pretty similar (and take off from the same point). A couple of things to keep in mind if you do book:

• While the kayaking is easy enough, you should not do this tour if you’ve never kayaked before. The waterways are tight and will be packed with other tourists, so you have to be able to effectively steer your boat.
• If you’re scared of the dark or of being on the water in the dark, I would not recommend this tour. It has to be really dark to see the bioluminescence, so you won’t be able to see much of what’s around you!
• Try to stay close to a tour guide to hear some of the facts about bioluminescence and the mangroves. Since so many people join these tours, it can be hard to hear unless you’re close by.
• If you can, book your tour when the moon will be its smallest—remember that the goal is ultimate darkness. Cloud coverage can also negatively affect your ability to see the water shimmer.
• Wear bug spray! There will likely be lots of mosquitoes.

Boat Excursion to Culebra/Vieques

Also out of Fajardo is an all-day snorkeling tour to Culebra, an island off the east coast of Puerto Rico known for its incredible beaches, including Flamenco Beach (often considered one of the best beaches in the world). We booked through East Island Excursions during our 2023 trip. Unfortunately, parts of Puerto Rico were experiencing very dangerous surf, so our tour was rerouted to Vieques instead, another nearby island. Vieques also had incredible beaches, and the tour included snorkeling (snorkel gear provided), lounging on the beach, alcoholic drinks, and a light lunch onboard the boat. It’s important to note that even on a good day, the water between the main island and Culebra is quite choppy, so you might want to pack some Dramamine just in case—several people get sick.

Hike in El Yunque National Forest

If you get the chance to venture out of the city, a hike through El Yunque is a must. El Yunque is a beautiful and lush landscape, with incredible views of the island, and it’s the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. There are several trails, but I remember loving La Coca Trail as a kid—it’s steep and can be slippery but leads to a beautiful waterfall. When we visited in 2023, a lot of the trails were still closed due to hurricane damage, including La Coca, but I believe several of these have since reopened. Be sure to check out the website before your visit to check any trail closures and to see if you need a timed entry pass.

Traditional Lunch in the Mountains

One of the special parts of having Puerto Rican family is being able to partake in more cultural experiences off the beaten path of the typical tourist spots. Getting a traditional lunch in the mountains is one of those activities that can be difficult to do as a tourist but is SO worth it if you consider yourself a foodie. The roads are winding and there are roadside stands and restaurants everywhere, serving one of Puerto Rico’s specialties, lechón—a whole roasted pig that is cooked over coals or open flame for hours so that the skin gets crispy and the inside is tender and extremely flavorful. Sides include root vegetables such as yuca and ñames (yams), rice, and maduros (fried sweet plantains). Of course, you have to get a coconut mojito to go with it! We didn’t get a chance to have this experience on our most recent trip, but we indulged ourselves in 2023 and it was one of the best meals I’ve ever eaten. We ate at Lechonera El Rancho Original and then explored Charco Azul afterwards.

What to Eat and Drink

What else should you eat and drink while in Puerto Rico? I might be biased, but Puerto Rican food is absolutely delicious and there are lots of things you should try if you see them on the menu.

• Mofongo—Mofongo is a traditional Puerto Rican dish made of mashed up fried plantains and chicharrón (fried pork skin), often with a sauce and protein on top. I usually get shrimp mofongo with garlic sauce, but you can also get it with grouper fish, conch, or chicken, to name a few. The best place I’ve had mofongo is at Pasion por el Fargon in Fajardo—the perfect place to stop for dinner before the bio bay kayaking tour.
• Maduros/amarillos—As I mentioned before, maduros (sometimes called amarillos) are fried sweet plantains that are often served as a side. I love them and think they make the perfect little dessert, but other people in my family think they’re too sweet. Worth a try, either way!
• Tostones—Tostones are another popular side, the more savory alternative to maduros. They are fried plantain slices served with salt and often a dipping sauce. You can also order tostones de pana, which is fried breadfruit. I love both, but they are quite different. Tostones de pana are less common on menus.
• Aguacate relleno—Another favorite of mine is stuffed avocados from Café El Punto, a hidden gem in Old San Juan. Just imagine a huge avocado stuffed with shrimp and garlic sauce… Does it get any better than that?!
• Arroz y habichuelas—I know most Mexican restaurants serve rice and beans on the side, and they’re often left untouched… But the rice and beans in Puerto Rico are SO good, you make sure you save room for them. Instead of black or refried beans, habichuelas are stewed red beans that come seasoned in a bit of liquid that you can pour over the rice. Delish!
• Medalla—If you want a taste of Puerto Rican beer, you have to order a Medalla. It’s basically the Bud Light of P.R., not particularly good but iconic all the same.
• Piraguas—Another treat you must have while in Puerto Rico is a piragua, which is essentially just a snow cone! Little stands are all over Old San Juan but it’s especially fun to grab one near El Morro and watch the kite fliers in the park. There are usually some more unique tropical flavors to try, such as guava and passionfruit.
• Quesitos—For a breakfast treat, you should try the quesitos, which are cream cheese-filled pastries covered in a delicious glaze.
• Piña colada—And of course, you have to order at least one (or two, or three) piña coladas while in P.R. Barrachina in Old San Juan is where the famous tropical cocktail was invented in 1954! The lines for this particular place can be long and the drinks are small, but it is fun to snap a pic with the tile commemorating the cocktail’s invention. Puerto Rico is known as the Rum Capital of the World, though, so really any rum drink is a taste of the island!

What to Know

Here are some additional fast facts to know about Puerto Rico before planning your trip:

• Because Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, you don’t need a passport to travel there. They also use American money.
• Most people in the tourist areas speak English and Spanish, so the language barrier is typically minimal to nonexistent.
• As is the case with lots of Spanish-speaking countries, the Spanish in Puerto Rico is likely different than what you learned in school. They tend to shorten and combine lots of words, so it can, in my opinion, be extra difficult for someone trying to learn to pick up even basic sentences.
• The driving is also pretty different, and personally, I wouldn’t recommend renting a car (unless you like a thrill). For example, on this most recent trip, we stumbled across several stoplights that were out and had been out for a while. Rather than treating it as a four-way stop sign, as is customary stateside, it appeared to be a free-for-all with people just going as they pleased. There are also often roads with no lanes or roads that are two-lane but only wide enough for a car and a half. I’m sure there is a system and it clearly works well for them, as I’ve hardly seen any accidents the three times I’ve visited, but it seems a little crazy to those of us who aren’t used to it. Just wanted to be transparent that while yes, Puerto Rico is part of the U.S., I would say the driving is more like driving in another country than another state.
• San Juan is a major port for cruise ships, which can make the local shops and restaurants extremely crowded when a ship is docked. During our 2023 stay in Old San Juan, which was during the week, we learned that most places closed at 8 pm to cater to the cruise crowd—bad news for us because we had a late flight and couldn’t find anywhere to eat! It’s just something to consider while planning your trip—I think the hordes of cruisegoers detract from the experience so I would try to plan around that next time, if possible.

Special Shoutout to Ponce

This doesn’t really fall into any of the other categories, but on our way back from Cabo Rojo on this most recent trip, we stopped in Ponce for a couple of hours. I was so charmed by the plaza (my aunt says it’s her favorite on the whole island) and the surrounding buildings. We also stumbled into the cutest hotel with the best photo-ops. Unfortunately, the famous Parque de Bombas was closed for renovations, but I would love to visit Ponce again some day to explore more of what it has to offer.

For other Puerto Rico-related blog posts, check out the links below:

• Weekly Recap #10, 2023
• Weekly Recap #11, 2023
• Exploring Old San Juan
• March 2023 Month in Review
• What I Wore in Puerto Rico
• Weekly Recap #7, 2024
• Puerto Rico on My Mind
• February 2024 Month in Review

And that’s a wrap! All my Puerto Rico pics and recs in one place. Have you ever been to the island? It seems to me like it’s been growing in popularity because I’ve known several people who have gone in the last couple months alone. I know part of the draw is that it feels out of the country without having to deal with foreign money or a passport. I’ve also heard it’s a much more affordable alternative to Hawaii, but I haven’t been to Hawaii myself and can’t compare (yet).

I hope you enjoyed this post, if not just for the photos, and thank you for stopping by! Feel free to leave me any questions in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them.

 

Miles of smiles,

Grace